Life’s a Beach

2 02 2016

Throughout the entire drive along the Coromandel Peninsula I felt torn. I didn’t know if I should be looking straight ahead out the windshield, to the side through my passenger side window, or if I should actually be hanging out the window and looking back at where we had just come. 360 degrees of absolute, stunning scenery.

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It was this indecisiveness about where to look that probably contributed to that woozy feeling I battled as well.

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You may have been one of the few who has seen my four page trip itinerary. Well, today’s trip was supposed to take the morning and the afternoon, but really, probably 4 – 5 hours. An hour and a half to Thames, another 160 km drive around the coast and low and behold, we’re rolling into our hotel in late afternoon for check in.

Well, as all of you who have been to New Zealand know, the drives are beautiful and they are so windy, that everything takes longer.

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Plus, I did not account for a 5 minute conversation with Phil (from The Langham Hotel Auckland). And when he heard that we were heading to the Coromandel Peninsula, he said, ‘You have to go to New Chums Beach. It is paradise. It is like treasure island. But you’ve got to work for it – to the end of the beach, over the rocks, through the trail – and then you will be rewarded with paradise’.

I mean, who can pass up an endorsement like that??!!

And so, we left Auckland around 10AM, cruised through Thames, marveled at the coastal water views directly on our left and wondered what type of fish everyone was catching out on the rocks.

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Phil pretty much said, ‘don’t even think about stopping at a beach on the West side – a waste of time’.  Hard not to stop for sights like these….

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NZ Christmas Tree!

We were tempted by the 25 green lipped mussel limit posted on the beach, and figured that would have stopped my dad right there – he would be out there on the beach trying to figure out who he needed to recruit to increase his shell fish limit.

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And after a quick lunch with NZ specialties L & P and ‘chocolate fish’ at Coromandel Town…

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We found ourselves walking past a beautiful white sand beach to find an even more beautiful white sand beach.  Maybe Phil was right…

We walked towards the end of Whangapoua Beach, to scale over rocks, to use rope handrails to climb up tree root-studded embankments and descend down into paradise.

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Whangapoua Beach

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I have to say it….New Chums Beach may have wrecked me for all other beaches.

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New Chums Beach

Sparkling, smooth white sand (with no rocky bits or drying seaweed). Clear blue and turquoise water. Cliffs filled with greenery surrounding a protected bay. Pointed, greenery covered islands in the distance.  And enough empty beach that it felt like you had it almost all to yourself.

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And so, with the help of Phil, breathtaking NZ scenery, a need to stop and take photos, and twisting roads, we rolled up to our hotel just after 7PM. 9 Hours Later.

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38 Hours Later

2 02 2016

Twenty-two hours after we arrived at SeaTac airport, we landed in Auckland, New Zealand. During that time, we visited 2 Centurion Airport Lounges, spent 14 hours in the air, watched 1 documentary, ¾ of a movie and had 4 meals. I slept for a cumulative 3 hours, and Nathan, maybe an hour all together. For as much as he praised the Air New Zealand Sky Couch – he also cursed it – because as I could curl up and have a pretty nice sleeping nest, a 6+ foot man, cannot curl himself up and create a comfy nest. Even the allure of a ‘cuddle belt’ did not provide a comfortable sleeping position for Nathan. And so, sleep deprived, and with a crick in his neck, we began our adventures in New Zealand!

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Driving on the opposite side of the road and on the opposite side of the car…it took a little while to get used to. We may have hit a temporary construction sign. Maybe. Armed with some paper maps, some printed directions and a little assistance from my phone, we adventured our way through Auckland for the next 12 hours.

We headed straight through the Waitakere Ranges to the West Coast full of its iron sand beaches, cliffs and big surf. I figured since we were strolling into town at 6AM (before the sun was even up), we had time to head to the West Coast and see what that was all about.

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Perhaps, I should have checked the weather before doing that, as we muddled our way through driving on the opposite side of the road, getting turned around and lost in the forest and driving deeper and deeper into descending fog and misty rain.

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But we made it! We scrambled into our rain jackets and ran along the black sand beaches, explored the rocky face of Lion Rock, tried to coax crabs out of rocks and tide pools and dipped our toes in the, surprising not as cold as I thought it would be, water.

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By 8AM we were tucked into the Piha Café for our first taste of NZ atmosphere: barefoot surfers, foul-mouthed rugged English guys on a motorbike trek across NZ and our first Flat Whites.

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By 10AM we were on the east side of Auckland, picking seashells off the beach at Mission Bay, as we looked beyond to Rangitoto Island.

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By 12:30PM we were tucking into a platter of steamed green lipped mussels. Huge mussels, very tasty, and Nathan even got an extra bite of protein (he realized later after looking at the photo……that he did indeed eat the crab that was in the mussel, and thought the crunch was normal – yuck!).

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By 2:00PM we were rolling up to the hotel.

By 4:00PM I was giggling like a school girl and oohing and aahing over the fantastic desserts at Milse. (Thank you Natalie for the recommendation!)

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The verdict:
Bombe Alaska: Passion Fruit and Vanilla Gelato, enrobed in white chocolate and covered in a torched meringue

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62% Satilia: Cherry & hazelnut (I can’t remember the rest but there was a chocolate cookie crumble and some other good stuff).

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36% Caramelia: Salted Almond and Caramel masterpiece (apparently I stopped listening after hearing about the Bombe Alaska!)

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And after strolling along the Viaduct Harbor, taking in drinks and snacks on a patio, we were getting ready for bed by 8:00PM. But after going strong for 38 hours, I don’t feel bad for being asleep by 9PM. Not even a little bit.





With Views Like These…

28 01 2016

Nathan told me Greece or New Zealand.

Who would have thought that within 6 months, he would get to check both of these destinations off of his list.

And so, off we go to New Zealand.  And after a couple of months of planning and mapping and researching and googling, I put together an itinerary that I was pretty happy with.  That is, until we got to 2 days away from our trip, and I started doing more research, and as much reasoning as I had for staying 1 night here, and 2 nights there, stopping at this place instead of that place and visiting here and driving past there and doing this instead of that….well, all of a sudden, there are SO MANY THINGS I WANT TO DO that are not on our itinerary.  I guess that means that this is NOT a Once in a Lifetime Trip.  Because we are going to have to go back and do a whole bunch of other things some day.

But for now, I am perfectly content to spend some time in New Zealand, when I can enjoy views like these…and all within 8 hours of landing in the country…

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Lion Rock at Piha Beach

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Rolling Hills north of Auckland

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Mission Bay Beach

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Auckland Skyline





You Want to What?

26 01 2016

What do you do when a 16 year old, who has had his driver’s license for 3 months, wants to do some off-roading in the Arizona/California desert?

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You get in the back seat…

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Of another car!!!  I definitely did not need a front row seat this time.  An experience best left to Dad and Grandpa.

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And followed at a safe distance away…

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I did however enjoy the great rock art created in the desert (by some fellow Canadians!).

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And quite enjoyed the new friends we made.

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It’s All in the Eyes

9 01 2016

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We spent some time in Las Vegas over the holidays, and even though we didn’t spend a cent in the casinos, I felt like we made the most of what Las Vegas had to offer.

For the first time in a long time we stayed at a hotel on the strip, we found what I think was the only empty bar in Las Vegas (which was weird), we wined and dined on a four course meal and became best friends with our server Sam – who treated us to a delicious nutella creme brûlée.  And the very highlight of our trip, the one thing that I had wanted to do for a long time was visit the big cats at Siegfried & Roy’s Secret Garden and Dolphin Habitat at the Mirage.

Yes, on the surface, the experience can seem like you’re just watching lions and tigers in enclosures through fencing pace back and forth…and it did make me a little sad when they would just pace back and forth.  But, once I started taking photos with our zoom lens, and I could capture a glimpse of these beautiful creatures without the grid fencing, it was magical.

This was a rare case when the photos after the fact, became so much more than the real experience – a chance to relive watching 4 month old sister tiger cubs play and pounce with each other, to revel in the details of their big paws and pink noses and to look into their watchful eyes.

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And because I chose the right guy for me, he knew that no casino, chocolate shop, bar or show would give me more pleasure than making a second visit to see the big cats.

And because my guy chose the right girl, the next day, we spent the day watching football at a Sports Bar.

And that ends our perfect 24 hours in Las Vegas.





Check Santorini off the List (at least Oia)

22 10 2015

It hasn’t escaped me that I haven’t showcased the iconic Santorini photos in my previous posts.  I said that I had only scheduled one of our days in Santorini, but that doesn’t mean that all of the other days weren’t packed full with wandering the streets of Oia scouting out photo locations.

Yes, we were those people.  The ones that did a trial run to the top of the remains of Oia Castle to figure out the best place to set up the tripod so we didn’t have to guess at sunset when the hoards of people would make a run for the wall, the ledge, any available seating surface and bake in the setting sun, taking selfies and drinking and finally applauding the sun for a gorgeous setting.

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These people. We didn’t want to battle with these people.

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Perfect viewpoint to capture the Oia cliffside

In fact, we didn’t elbow our way through the crowds at all, instead we enjoyed the sunset from the comfort of our own Oia cliffside hotel, before we made the trip to the castle to catch that magic hour after the sunset.

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We spent our days peeking down alleyways to discover the secrets hidden in the back.

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Yes! We found cats. Lots of cats!

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We trekked our way back down to Ammoudi Bay and this time in the heat of the day.

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One of many many asian couples that take their pre-wedding photos in Santorini. I felt for those women hiking up their wedding dresses in the hot sun

And we trekked our way back up….for thank goodness our last time.

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And we found those 3 blue domed churches.  Yes….those blue domed churches.

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And of course we ate, and managed to fit in a few more (2…4…maybe 6) visits to Lolita’s for gelato.

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Grilled (squeaky) halloumi cheese with fig reduction

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Local specialty: white eggplant

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The tastiest and freshest greek salad with locally grown veggies

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Pomegranate and Chocolate Sorbet (eaten but not shown: stracciatella, pistachio, kiwi, cuban lover, peach, strawberry, coconut, melon…)

After a couple of days of meandering through alleys snapping hundreds (possibly thousands…) of photos, trekking up and down steps, eating our way through the village, beating a path back and forth to Lolita’s for more gelato, and cooling off at the pool, we were finally ready to say goodbye to Santorini when we captured our iconic Santorini Sunset photo. 

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Busy from Morning to Night

3 10 2015

I promised Nathan that I would make plans for only 1 day while we were visiting Santorini.  The rest of the time we compromised on how to spend our time: Drink beer by the pool.  Make twice daily pilgrimages for gelato.  You can guess whose choice was whose.

And so, for our first (and only planned) day on the Greek island of Santorini I had Nathan up and out the door by 8:30AM and we staggered back around 1AM.

Our morning adventures had us meeting up with Olaf Reinen of Shotz Tours for a one-on-one morning of photography and an opportunity to explore an area of Santorini that we wouldn’t have come across otherwise.

He made us realize that no one is ever going to weep at our photos and ask us if they were shot in manual mode, but that the important thing to remember is to get the shot.  Get the shot.  The point was made very clear when he asked what I would do if I was taking a photo of the water at a scenic viewpoint and all of a sudden, behind me, there was a donkey with a monkey on top, and the monkey was juggling fire sticks.  Well, it was clear that of course I would want to get a photo of this crazy sight, because, really, who would believe me otherwise.  And it was also clear, that if I was in manual mode, there was absolutely no way I could react fast enough to get that photo.

And so, with a new perspective, and the additional teachings of using the exposure compensation and histogram functions on the camera, we set off to Emborio, the traditional trade center of Santorini, and the largest village on the island, where we stopped every few steps to take photos because every few steps was something new and beautiful we wanted to capture and remember.

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Locally grown pomegranates

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Around every corner there was another brightly-coloured door, aged corridor, blue-domed church, or vibrant bougainvillea draped over bright white buildings.  We could have spent all day with Olaf taking photos, showing him our histograms like students looking for approval from their teacher, which I guess we were.  But alas…I had plans for the rest of our day.  Only 4 hours of our day were allotted for photography! 

And so we rushed back to our hotel for a quick wardrobe change before we were climbing back up the 100 steps to the main village of Oia to start our next adventure.

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We boarded a 45ft luxury catamaran with 11 other passengers and enjoyed one of the highlights of our trip!

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Six hour sailing tour with Santorini Sailing, with a fantastic crew that took us to swim at Red Beach,  the Hot Springs, cooked us a gourmet meal onboard, plied us with beer and wine, and sailed us into the perfect position to watch the sunset.

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Bronzed from the sun, happy from the wine and sleepy from the salty air, we made our way back to our hotel.  The full moon was casting a glow on the water and lighting our way.

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And then I turned and out of nowhere, a man riding a donkey comes around the corner.  Surprise! I got the shot!

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So maybe it wasn’t a monkey riding a donkey juggling fire sticks…but, I still got the shot!





Finally…Santorini

25 09 2015

I think I fell in love with Santorini before I even set eyes on it.  I was one of the many many many girls who was caught up in the tales of friendship, love, loss and life in the Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants books.  And after seeing the movie, I’ll admit that it was on my list of must see places.

I’m not going to say that this was one of the main reasons why Santorini made it to the top of the list of places to see when we decided on Greece as our vacation destination…but….it could have also been because its regularly listed as one of the top islands to visit in the world!

Regardless, I was pretty excited and spent a lot of time on the blogs, looking at photos and trying to decide, sunset or caldera view…where should we stay?   Ultimately I couldn’t pass up staying on the iconic cliffside of Oia.  And once again, Nathan did not want to look at photos and spoil his ‘first look’.

Here’s the thing…I looked at a lot of photos.  I looked at professional photos and I looked at other travelers’ photos.  And even though I knew what to expect, there is nothing that can compare to when you finally get your ‘first look’ at those blue domed churches and the white washed cliffside.  It’s like, you have a moment where you feel like, ‘yes! I have finally arrived!’

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My ‘first look’

This is especially the case because we took a flight to the island, arrived to a desolate airport with a locked door, while we all peered through the windows looking at the empty baggage claim spin round and round.  We took a shuttle along the east side of the island, away from the sparkling caldera views.  So I was a little confused when I didn’t see white-washed buildings, blue domes and windmills.  For whatever reason I thought the entire island would look like that.  But we were dropped off when the shuttle driver said, ‘there’s your boy’.  Come to find out that our hotel had sent someone to help us with our bags…..THANK GOODNESS.

We wound through the narrow pedestrianized streets (really more like alleys) and went up stairs, then down stairs, then down a lot of stairs.  At one point I wondered if our suitcases would hold up from being carried so far.  Our guy didn’t miss a beat when he hoisted my 45 lb suitcase onto his shoulder and started the trek down 100 stairs to get to our hotel.

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By the time we had reached our hotel, Oia Mare Villas, and checked in I was hot. So hot.  So so hot.  Sweating through my dress and all I wanted to do was strip down and jump in the pool.  But, we had to go foraging for lunch (tough life I know).  

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I may not look like I’m melting….but I totally am

We didn’t make it too far before we came across Lotsa and met our new best friend Litsa.  We loved Litsa and went back a couple more times during our trip just to see her.  And enjoy some delicious mussel saganaki and fava bean dip of course.

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Much needed beer with our view

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Now this is a view for our lunch

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Mussel Saganaki & local Fava Bean Dip

We didn’t make it too much further than the pool and the glorious A/C in our cave suite for the rest of the afternoon.

But by the time the sun was setting and the air had cooled slightly, we got ourselves together for a glass of wine by the pool and decided to make the trek down the steps to Amoudi Bay.

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And I was greeted by a sight that I have been waiting for!  The donkeys! The donkeys! The donkeys!   As soon as I read that you could ride a donkey for 5 euro, it was on my to do list.  And I had these visions of getting the cutest donkey photos.  Luckily they wear these bells, and we could hear them going up and down the steps from our hotel – so I was constantly on donkey watch.  I got my very first photo of the donkeys just steps (ok…a lot of steps) away from our hotel.

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It seemed like a really good idea to walk down to Amoudi Bay at night.  It wasn’t as hot so you didn’t feel like you were melting walking down (and then back up) the steps.  You didn’t have to worry about being too hot when we were eating down by the water (but it was still pretty warm).  And there was something fun about spending our first night eating grilled octopus that had been drying in the sun all day, right on the water that was shimmering with colours.

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The one thing that we didn’t take into account was that we were walking the same steps that the donkeys walk all day.  Up and down…up and down.  Only at night, there are very few lights to help you make sure you don’t walk in exactly the same steps the donkeys walked before you.  But, you hope for the best and wipe your sandals off before you get back to the hotel room – and it didn’t prevent us from taking those same steps down to Amoudi Bay two more times during our trip! 





Meteora: Suspended in the Air

12 09 2015

Spent a morning being amazed by the six monasteries that are built on top of natural sandstone pillars in Meteora.

We wound our way through the mountain roads and I kept craning my neck to look up….and up….and up to see the sandstone pillars.  I frantically took photos while we were on the bus, not sure if we would see these sights again.  I should have known better: 1. Of course we were going to visit viewpoints with amazing vistas.  2.  Only 1% of photos taken from a moving bus actually look good.

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Finger of God

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Cave of St. George Madilas: “Saint George with the Scarves” – the most popular cave, located in one of the steepest slopes outside of Kastraki. Every year believers hang colourful scarves near the cave’s entrance.

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Holy Monastery of St. Nicholas Anapausas

Somehow our timing was perfect, and our group had many of these viewpoints all to ourselves.

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I thought we were jumping….probably smart that we didn’t jump at the same time

Originally there were over 20 monasteries built on these pillars, there are 6 remaining.  We visited 2 monasteries during our tour.  The interiors were full of detailed and intricate paintings  all over the walls and ceilings.  The courtyards were beautiful and peaceful, but the true feeling of wonder came from the fact that these monasteries were built in the 14th/15th centuries, in impossible conditions – with no roads, and all supplies and manpower hoisted up the 1200+ foot cliffs.

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Courtyard views at Holy Monastery of St. Stephen

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Private courtyard of the Monks at the Holy Monastery of Varlaam

Although there are some stairs required, the original entrances to these monasteries were deliberately difficult with access only by ladders lashed together or a net used to haul both goods and people up the cliffs.  A true act of faith.

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The pulley and winch is still used today to hoist items, although now it has a little help rather than just man power

We finished our tour around noon and eased our way back down to the village of Kalambaka.  Lunch was a unique experience at the Restaurant Meteora in Mama’s kitchen.  We entered the kitchen with dishes bubbling on the stove as Mama described what she had made for lunch: meatballs, lamb with eggplant, chicken, and many more dishes.  Mama made sure we had large portions of her delicious food as we circled around the kitchen.

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Lunch, some sticky greek honey soaked sweets, a cafe frappe and we were back on the bus for our 4+ hour ride back to Athens.

Although we did have a little detour since there was a girl on our bus who had coordinated a stop along the way to meet a long lost relative – an aunt she had never met, and who brought traditional greek sweets for all of us to enjoy!!

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Overall, just a beautiful trip through these mountains to experience a landscape like no other.

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Panoramic views of Meteora





The Sacrifices We Make

5 09 2015

I must have done something to anger the Greek Gods.

That’s the only explanation I can think of to explain the fact that not only did I fall once, but TWICE, on our trip.

Both Athena and Apollo demanded a blood sacrifice from me when we visited Greece. First Athena, Goddess of wisdom, courage, inspiration, civilization, law and justice, mathematics, strength, war strategy, the arts, crafts and skill, got me just as we were about to call it a day at The Parthenon, a temple specifically dedicated to Athena. After this first fall, I chalked it up to being clumsy, not giving walking my full attention, wearing the wrong footwear and ultimately I brushed my scraped knee, sighed at my chipped toe nail polish and asked about the camera, which got a beating on the rocks when I fell to my left knee. Turns out, I also sacrificed a polarized filter to Athena (to which the guy at the camera store said, ‘better the filter than the lens’ – so true).

We left Athens to take a bus tour through the mountains and olive groves to upper Central Greece, to the site of Delphi.

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Delphi is a place that is believed to be determined by Zeus when he sought to find the centre of his ‘Grandmother Earth’. He sent two eagles flying from the East and the West and the eagles crossed paths over Delphi – the navel of the World.

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The Omphalos Stone: The Navel of the World

Delphi may be best known for the Oracle at the sanctuary that was dedicated to Apollo.  Apollo spoke through his oracle: the Sibyl or Priestess of the oracle who was chosen from the village.  She was kept in solitude and would sit above an opening in the earth and wait to be ‘possessed’ by Apollo.    During our tour, our guide said that there have been studies completed that suggest that a gas high in ethylene was emitted from the opening, which may have caused the oracle’s trance and raving state.

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Rock of the Sibyl

But regardless of whether or not this woman, Sibyl, was high, people would travel for miles to seek answers to their questions.  Treasuries were built to house the offerings made to Apollo.  And according to our tour guide, if someone didn’t want to bring an offering on their pilgrimage to Delphi, it was no problem, because there was the equivalent of a gift shop available to purchase offerings deemed worthy of Apollo.

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Treasury of the Athenians

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Temple of Apollo

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Temple of Apollo with a Laurel Tree (the eternal form of the nymph Daphne, pursued by Apollo until she called out to her father, the River God, for help to flee him. She was transformed into the Laurel Tree, and Apollo vowed that he would claim her has his tree and her leaves would crown the heads of leaders and champions.)

It was hot. Really HOT. We were climbing up sun-baked steps around 1PM and I felt a little reminiscent of our hot dusty accent from the bottom of the Grand Canyon from a few years back – which was not pretty. After our official tour ended at the Temple of Apollo, we were encouraged to continue walking up to see the Theatre and the Stadium, but keep an eye on the time, because we needed to be back on that bus in 45 minutes!

Up and up we walked. I kind of took in the scenery, but Nathan made a smart point that we should just get to the top first and then we knew how much time we had to take photos when we came back down – we COULD NOT miss that bus!

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Ancient Theatre of Delphi

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We made it to the top! And although the Stadium was interesting to see, I couldn’t really appreciate it, I was just too hot.

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As we turned to head back down, Nathan suggested we walk off the trail in the shade, which sounded like a great idea!  I took one or two steps down the slope of loose rock and WHAM! Down I go. Leaning hard to the left as I landed on my left knee (again) and scraped the side of my leg. It hurt.  And it was embarrassing.  I could hear other tour people saying, ‘well there’s always someone who falls…’

Apollo did not just want a drop or two, he wanted a blood sacrifice worthy of the God of music, light, healing and medicine.  But at least he didn’t require a full sacrifice of my new polarized filter – just a couple surface scratches.  And I don’t know if it’s a good thing that I fell the same way, apparently I favour my left side, because I tore up the knee that was healing from my fall at the Parthenon, but at least I wasn’t going to scar up both knees.  How convenient that I had asked Nathan if I should pack some bandaids in my bag before we left that morning (Nathan’s reply: ‘you should always have bandaids with you‘).  And so, with the help of some hand sanitizer, tissues and bandaids I did a little triage first aid, steps away from the mountain-top stadium and proceeded down the steps to catch the bus.  Only this time, as I descended from the mountain, I also descended into a little pity party.

I could not believe I had fallen…again.  What was I going to do for the second day of our tour.  And what about our trip to the islands with the many many many stairs…how was I going to survive?  I just didn’t trust myself anymore and I may have looked up at the view twice as we walked down the stairs.  I had my eyes glued to my feet, and my fingers clutched around a handrail when there was one available.  And by the time we made it down the mountain to wait for the bus, my neck was hurting from staring at my feet, my ankle was swelling up, I was bleeding through my bandaid, and I was so friggin’ hot!

Thank goodness we were going to sit down for lunch and then finish up our day on an air conditioned bus.

Perhaps I spoke too soon.  I silently patted myself on the back for packing baby powder, but baby powder was no match for a bus that had A/C issues.  So as we wound our way through mountain roads, basically cooking ourselves, I was lulled into a comatose state, too nauseous to open my eyes and look out the window and too hot to do more than rest the side of my face against the seat and take small breaths.  In our 4 hour bus ride I think I talked to Nathan once, and only to check and see if he was still alive.

So you can imagine my feeling of exhilaration and relief and a feeling that made me catch my breath, when I came across this gem at a rest stop!

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Oh my god, I have never felt so happy to have cold air blowing in my face.  I think I may have pushed a small child out of the way.  I get mean when I’m hot, apparently.

And so, after a ten hour day, seven of which was spent on a bus, I thanked Nathan for not complaining and rubbing it in my face that perhaps we are not bus tour people.  And I also may have said, that perhaps, despite our 10 year age difference, I may not outlive him after all…