Je ne parle pas Francais

1 02 2014

I find myself dreaming about the french conversations I want to attempt.  By french conversations I mean, ‘I would like a box of 12 macaroons’ = ‘je voudrais une boîte de douze macarons’.  So far I have braved grocery shopping, mime-talking to the butcher (thank goodness for a friendly french-speaking stranger), buying make up remover and 200 grams of the tastiest raspberry white chocolate bark (this one is my proudest moment).

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When you don’t speak the language it makes you pause a little bit – do I really need this?  Do I have a question? Can I get by by just watching people or looking at the package and figuring it out myself?    

For the most part, walking around hearing french surrounding me hasn’t phased me too much.  It actually feels quite familiar since, as a Canadian, I took french in school for 5 years.  But listening to tapes and memorizing vocabulary words does not prepare you for functioning in a french city like Geneva, Switzerland.

My lack of French skills means that I have immersed myself in the non-speaking parts of the city – the architecture, the landscape, the tourist attractions – really anything that I could take a photo of.

The pride of the city is the Jet D’Eau, the high pressure water fountain that shoots up a jet spray of water in Lac Leman (or Lake Geneva), which you can catch a great view of in the Geneve Jardin Anglais.  And you can catch glimpses of it all over the city when it peeks through a plaza or side street or even over top of the buildings.  It’s almost like a homing beacon – as long as I could see the Jet D’Eau, I could figure out where I was.  It’s just as much a reference point here as the mountains are in downtown Vancouver, BC.

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Me & My Sister & the Jet D’Eau

Another main attraction in Geneva is the L’Horloge Fleurie, the flower clock by the water, which has been in service since 1951, changes flowers throughout the seasons, and has never stopped or been out of order.

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Walking through the streets of Geneva, especially in the winter time, you’ll notice these strange trees.  With patchy scaly-looking trunks and odd bulb like branches, I kept asking my sister, ‘what kind of trees are these?’ Her response was, ‘they’re weird aren’t they – I don’t know.’  I did a little of my own research and it turns out they’re a hybrid of the sycamore tree and they’re called ‘Plane Trees’.  They’re really green and bushy in season and then the city tends to prune the branches back in the winter (although I’ve seen some with their branches on and they look like Chia Pets).

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No trip to Geneva seemed complete without swinging past the United Nations building, so we made a quick trip there to see the Chair du Palais des Nations, which is a monument in front of the UN building of a broken wooden chair meant to raise awareness of the devastating effects of land mines and cluster bombs.  Being the UN Building, we were also treated to some protesting while we were there.

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The Place Neuve showed off the picturesque Grand-Theater, a replica of the Paris Garnier Opera House, and is across the street from the Promenade des Bastions, where you can find the Reformation Wall, which is a monument that honors individuals, events and documents of the Protestant Reformation.

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Grand-Theater

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Reformation Wall

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Place du Bourg-de-Four is Geneva’s oldest square and when I came across it, it felt like the epitome of european culture to me.

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And although I haven’t put my french sentence into practice YET – with the help of my sister I have been able to taste the delectable treats at Laduree – Salted Caramel, Pistachio and Rose-flavoured french macaroons.  YUM!

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Show Me Something Old

29 01 2014

I am instantly drawn to cobblestones.  I don’t know what it is, but when I see those uneven, sometimes jagged, stones pieced together in a mismatched puzzle, all I think is – that is where I need to go.  Those who know me, know that I am not the most sure-footed, a trip or two is commonplace, and perhaps uneven streets are not the safest place for me to be.  But I don’t care – I love Old Towns!

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My first look at Geneva took us from the airport through downtown Geneva passing lit up stores with ‘soldes, soldes, soldes‘ signs – all of the January sales, restaurants with their specialties written on A-frame signs, and patisseries, chocolatiers, and an assortment of other tempting destinations, but as soon as I saw a narrow alley inlaid with mismatched cobblestones leading to a steep staircase, I told my sister – that’s where I want to go.

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I had an hour and a half to myself while my sister was in French class and I pointed myself in the direction of those cobblestones.  I found this stairway that was hidden in a wall and it was so dark that all you could see was the light at the top shining down on you.  And of course, I said to myself, ‘this looks like a good place to start my adventures’.  So I climbed those steps to find myself on the backside of Cathedral St. Pierre – the crown jewel of Old Town.

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So I started my trek through the small side streets.  The Cathedral was definitely my prime destination, but then I found myself distracted by what was just around the corner, down that side street, under that bridge, through that courtyard, and most importantly, where are those people going and where did they come from? 

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I knew I was running out of time and when I saw this directional sign, I thought, ‘yes – which way to the Cathedral’.  So off I went, but then I thought…. Maison Tavel, and from what I remembered from the Geneva City App – that was a ‘must-see’ attraction.  So my rationale was – I’m right here, so why don’t I take the tour (it’s free!) and I have to go past the Cathedral to get back to meet my sister for lunch anyway…..

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Well, I made a friend at Maison Tavel.  The docent greeted me, and once I said, ‘parlez-vous anglais?’ did his best to provide me with all of the great things to see and explore at Maison Tavel – the oldest private dwelling in Geneva and a unique example of medieval civil architecture.  Plus, he kept finding me throughout my tour to give me more information about all of the other museums and attractions to see in Geneva – he even drew me a map.

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By the time I left I knew I was out of time.  I found myself skirting around the Cathedral but still I couldn’t seem to find the front of the Cathedral, just wandered around in the back yard before finding my hidden staircase in the wall.

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When I met my sister, she looked at me incredulously, ‘what?  You didn’t go to the Cathedral – but that’s the main part of Old Town.  How did you not find it?’ 

I have one more week here in Geneva so my one goal is to find that Cathedral – and actually see it, maybe even go inside…..And also, get some french macaroons.





A Hop Across the Pond

29 01 2014

It has been about 9 years since I’ve traveled to Europe.  Back in the day when I booked a rebellious trip to England to spend christmas – my first Christmas away from home – with a boy I just couldn’t live without (my how times have changed).  Good memories (castles, the Lake District, Hadrian’s wall, kilt-clad dancing scottish boys and puttering through London munching on Minstrels) and bad (fighting at the top of the Eiffel Tower, rude frenchmen, and steak and kidney pie).  A three-week trip was my extent of European travel, but I definitely had a lot of stories to share as we planed, trained, and bused our way across England, Scotland and France.

Since that trip I always thought I would have many European adventures, but over the last 9 years it seems like Canadian and American travel was in the cards for me.

Finally I had the opportunity for another couple weeks of European adventures – 2.5 weeks in Geneva, Switzerland to visit my sister.  It was a last minute trip so my travel preparations were done in a flurry but I’ve done so much domestic travel I felt like I had things under control, I wasn’t too worried.  And then I thought, ‘do I have everything under control? Am I missing something?’.  I felt like I needed to do so much more than I was doing because International travel should be more complicated right?  Was I leaving unprepared?

So I packed extra snacks, a travel pillow, printed a map of the Frankfurt airport, and talked to my sister – upon arrival: get a bus ticket, go through the green door and turn left.  Ok.  Got It.

Overall, pretty easy breezy – I made it, although there were a few things that stood out during my travels.

  1. Don’t try to cheat the system and avoid the line up at the Hudson News at SEATAC – I tried to get a bottle of water from the vending machine to avoid the line and it stole all my money, so not only did I end up back in the line up I paid 3x the amount for my bottle of water.
  2. I love International Travel: constant attendant service offering wine (red, white, sparkling) or bailey’s/cognac for an after dinner drink, water and orange juice for hydration.  This is something that stood out during my last trip 9 years ago as well.
  3. Although a big airport, Frankfurt is so organized, with attendants to help you place items into bins at security (plus everyone looks like they know what they’re doing in comparison to American airports).
  4. My French needs some work: I was eavesdropping on a guy on his cell and I thought he said something about ‘un chat’.  And I thought, why would he be talking about his cat…..then I heard something about ‘travail’.  Work – that makes more sense.
  5. German is not a language that I’m used to hearing and it’s a weird experience to not be able to recognize anything.
  6. Jetlag is a bitch.  I slept maybe 2 hours on my 10 hour flight to Frankfurt and landed at midnight PST.  I was in a groggy daze in Frankfurt waiting for my flight to Geneva and I could feel my body crashing.  By the time I arrived in Geneva it would be 3AM PST and only Noon local time.  I met up with my sister, had lunch, went grocery shopping, and actually made it until 9:30PM.  But only in the kitchen.  If we left the kitchen/stopped eating and drinking, I started to crash, so back to the kitchen we go.   By the time I got into bed 30 hours after I woke up in Seattle, this little pull out bed felt like it was the most comfortable bed I had ever been in.
Iconic views in Geneva, Switzerland - Jet d'Eau

Iconic views in Geneva, Switzerland – Jet d’Eau





19 Hours to Seattle

25 01 2014

On second thought….perhaps we do know the difference between a leisurely road trip and getting there as fast as we can.  It took us 5 days to drive from Seattle, WA to Parker, AZ.  On our way back home, we left Las Vegas, NV Saturday morning and were unloading the car at home by 12PM on Sunday.

Rather than coastal scenic byways we took the desolate highways through Nevada, Idaho and Oregon.  It felt like we had the roads to ourselves at times, and I admit that I kind of loved that (as long as we have all the gas we need).

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We left Vegas in the darkness of early morning and as we drove through the desert we watched the sun come up and the sky turn pink and purple.

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You don’t really think of Nevada having a very diverse landscape, but we saw desert with joshua trees, Texas Canyon like boulders, and big blue skies with puffy clouds and snow capped mountains.

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We passed the 1000 Springs Waterfalls in Idaho, some of which were frozen water statues against the cliffs and saw a whole flock of migrating birds.

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By the time we reached Washington State the camera was about to die.  The night before I asked Nathan – should I charge the battery?  Is there anything to see and take photos of?  His answer:  Nope, not much to see.  We stopped in Ontario, OR and after an early dinner and bedtime, prepared for a 4:30AM wake up.  Now, we thought we were in the Pacific timezone, until that is, we got to the car and were greeted by this:

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I turned to Nathan and said, “what time did you wake me up??? 3:30AM?”  In the end it worked out – yes an early wake up call, but the morning and rest of the day seemed like it went on forreeevvverrrrr.

I think we both forgot how beautiful Washington is when the sun is out.  We watched the sunrise and drove through the rolling hills of Washington’s wine country.

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And when we were within an hour of the house – low and behold, we found a Winter Wonderland.

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photo

 





Hitting the Dirt

18 01 2014

Apparently we have an All Wheel Drive vehicle.  Well, Nathan was determined to put it to the test.  Where else but in the desert landscape of Arizona (technically we were on the California side, but it doesn’t seem like CA), where you can pretty much take to the dirt anywhere you want and drive through the cacti, donkey droppings and joshua trees.  Just make sure you follow a trail, don’t get stuck in the sand, roll your vehicle, or back over a bush…(whoops Jerry…..) and leave some bread crumbs to find your way home.

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The Subaru XV made it through and held its own next to the Toyota FJ.  Not too bad…not too bad at all.

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Cloudless blue skies and dust bunnies being kicked up by off road vehicles, ATV’s and possibly a few people wandering around chasing donkeys and bribing them with carrots and tasty green apples.

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Father/Son Bonding

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Momma and Baby were a little skittish

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The Triplets

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Felt like we were back in time in an Old Western





From Beach to Desert to Bright Lights

17 01 2014

Good Morning Sunshine!

After 3 days of (almost) non-stop driving with most mornings spent waking up hours before the sun decided to show its face, it was heavenly to wake up after the sun came up.  And better than that – this was the view from our hotel room at Mandalay Beach in Oxnard, CA.

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Breakfast with the locals, a walk on the beach chasing sand pipers and skirting the waves.  It may look warm and balmy but that water is still shockingly cold on the toes.

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An afternoon soaking in the hot tub, an after-soak nap and watching the sun ease its way down beyond the horizon after the end of a relaxing day.  Can’t get better than that.

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From sand and surf to desert and burros – and it only took 5 hours!

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Check out those fuzzy bangs!

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Mom & Baby # 2

Two days after strolling the beach – Vegas….

From the Vdara Hotel – a view of the Vegas Strip and the Bellagio Fountain Show

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And to enjoy the different side of Vegas – Old Vegas….and the Fremont Street Experience.

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Sunset Magazine says, ‘Loveliest Spot in the World’

16 01 2014

There’s something about driving along the coast and sucking in the sunshine.  The magic of California definitely spun its web around me as we drove along Highway 1 from Santa Cruz to Santa Barbara.  We spent a leisurely Sunday morning browsing a Farmer’s Market in Berkeley and picked up a tasty collection of  goodies for a picnic lunch: pumpkin bolani and sundried tomato spread, apples, grapes, dried apricots and chewy ginger cookies.  And I had just the place to stop for our lunch.

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Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park.  Part of the Big Sur area and home to this beautiful view of a sandy beach cove, turquoise water and an 80 ft waterfall that drops from granite cliffs into the ocean.

 

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The best view for our picnic lunch.  We got comfortable on a bench and dug into our feast.  Off in the distance we saw spouts of water mist as we watched the migrating grey whales.  It was a pretty popular place to visit and there was a constant stream of traffic of people walking the path, seeing the waterfall and moving on.  But we felt like we had a secret – everyone was so focused on walking the trail and feeling disappointed that the waterfall wasn’t larger (come on people – it’s not exactly rain or snow melt season!) that they weren’t even paying attention to all of the whales that were in the water.  So we kept quiet, enjoyed our farmer’s market picnic lunch and enjoyed the magic of the moment.

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Our lunch detour took a little longer than expected….but we still made sure to enjoy the sunset before heading onto Santa Barbara.

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Fantasy Dining On & Below the Bay

15 01 2014

Although I don’t have any photos – let me see if I can paint you a picture.

The hustle and bustle of San Francisco.  The Ferry Building.  As the clock strikes 6PM, the crowds part and 6 friends find each other to reconnect for one night of the year.  Who knows what adventures will unfold.  First stop:  Hard Water – a whiskey bar that has floor to ceiling lit shelves of every type of whiskey, artisan ice cubes and the most savory smelling fried chicken I’ve ever had the pleasure to watch as it was walked across the room from kitchen to patron.

Second Stop:  Forbes Island – which you probably would never think about but most likely have seen it when you went to watch the sea lions barking up a storm at Pier 39 (by the way – they have returned).  The website says ‘Fantasy dining on & below the bay’ and that pretty much sums it up.  You board a pontoon boat and take a 2 minute (maybe) boat ride past the sea lions to dock at Forbes Island.  There’s a restaurant on and below the water and a lighthouse with an observation deck that gives you a view of the skyline.  It’s an odd experience.  It’s kind of like you’re in an overstuffed boat with chandeliers rocking on the ceiling, port holes – some with stained glass art and some just glass so you can watch crab and fish swim right by you as you dine.  As you sit down to eat, the water level is right at your head and you can feel the subtle rock and sway of the ‘island’ as it bobs in the water or gets hit with wake from the boats in the bay.  You get used to the motion of the ocean (hopefully before you get sea sick) but it doesn’t help when the servers rock back and forth on their heels to counteract the movement.  It’s a whoozy experience, but definitely a memorable one.  And the women’s bathroom – it’s like you’re entering into the captain’s quarters – bed and everything!

The food was tasty, the bubbly was bubbly, the experience was odd and kitschy but nothing could outshine the laughter and the jokes and the stories that were told and the stories that will be retold from that night.





Scenic Roadtrip VS Get there as fast as possible

14 01 2014

We decided to celebrate the holidays by heading back to the road.  Early mornings, road trip playlists, scenic overlooks and hundreds and hundreds of miles under our belts.

But, I think we may have gotten confused with the purpose of our trip.  It’s like when people tell you that there’s a difference between traveling and vacationing.  Yes – BIG difference.  Our intention was to head out on this scenic byway road trip heading south and driving the seaside roads along the Oregon Coast, through the Red Wood Forest and along highway 101 and Highway 1 along the coastal cliffs in California.  But, we found ourselves falling into old habits – early mornings, needing to make time on the road and with almost no time to stop and eat.

I had big plans on all the scenery we could take in – Oregon sand dunes, the sea stacks in Bandon, OR (plus enjoying a crab or two dipped in melted drawn butter….), taking in the impressive sight of the ancient Red Woods and leisurely days enjoying good food along the coast.

Well, the weather wasn’t the most cooperative and we started our road trip in snow and as we drove further and further south, the clouds never seemed to lift and we took in rain, fog and grey dreary sights.  And, although we did decide that maybe a summer trip along the Oregon Coast to actually enjoy the coastal sights would be a better idea, we did take in views of the Umpqua River Lighthouse and I did enjoy a half a crab in that tasty tasty butter in Winchester Bay, OR.

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Umpqua River Lighthouse

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Home of Delicious Fresh Crab!

As I mentioned before, our road trip goals got confused and we made dinner plans in San Francisco our second day on the road which put us in a mad dash down the coast.  Waking up in Grants Pass, OR (close to the OR/CA border) meant that we were waking up at 4:30am to head out for the day and had 10 hours to drive 400 miles, sightsee and drive one of the windiest roads down the coast.  And those glorious Red Wood forest views – well, we found ourselves parked on the side of the road in the middle of the forest waiting for the sun to rise.

Our patience wore out pretty quick so we ended up in Crescent City, CA for sunrise to take in a few misty morning photos.  But don’t worry – we found those trees that you can drive through!

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Misty Sunrise in Crescent City, CA

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Marine Layers

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Moonrise Morning

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And we found TWO trees to drive through!

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After our detour in Leggett, CA to drive through our second tree, we took to highway 1, the windy windy road through the forest – up and down, side to side – it definitely gave our brakes a work out.

And finally, finally, we broke through the trees to be rewarded with sunshine, blue skies, and crashing waves along the cliffs of the California Coast.  It’s everything you would picture it to be if it was your first time to the CA Pacific Coast.

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It may look like nothing, but it’s a migrating grey whale. Frustratingly our camera was acting up, but you can see a little breach and a mist of water in its tracks.

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It took us 15 hours, but we finally left the grey of the Pacific Northwest to find ourselves in sunny California.  And it was wonderful!

 





Back to the Basics

20 11 2013

Sometimes you just have to get outdoors, break it all down and keep it simple.  Just the two of us on a little road trip, staying in a cabin with no TV or internet, and enjoying some quality time in the good ol’ outdoors.

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Road to Roosevelt Beach

We spent 24 hours on the western side of the Olympic National Park and took in the empty beaches with crazy winds and loud, thundering waves.  It was so windy, it was hard to open the car door and once I was on the beach, it felt like I could barely breathe.

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Ocean Shores

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Driftwood? Or Loch Ness?

It was a crazy feeling to be speeding along the hard-packed sand of Ocean Shores Beach, parallel to the waves and splashing around where you don’t feel like you belong, but a great way to make use of our all wheel drive.   Seeing the tides come in was just a reminder of how powerful the ocean is.

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We made a return trip to Ruby Beach for sunset and enjoyed some solitude watching the sea stacks in the distance at Roosevelt Beach.

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#instagraming

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Solitude at Roosevelt Beach

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Just the Two of Us

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Our final outdoorsy adventure before heading back to the city was a jaunt into the forest on the way to Sol Duc Falls.  Lots of swirling water, and apparently I’m obsessed with mushrooms…..

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And on a final note…..we saw a bunch of people razor clam digging.  Now, I might be might be old school, and maybe I’m used to little neck clams, but ‘clam guns’??  It just doesn’t seem sportsmanlike!  It’s supposed to be you and a trowel and the speed that you can dig against the clam.  None of this pvc pipe with a plunger to trap the clam and take all the sand out in one swoop!

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Watching people on a hunt for razor clams with Clam Guns!