Exploring Olympic National Park

19 08 2013

It’s taken getting a car with all-wheel drive for me to realize how many places there are to explore in Washington.  Crazy how many off-road and hiking trails, swimming holes and waterfalls there are in such close proximity to Seattle.

We headed out towards Olympic National Park for some adventures.  And where I would have previously looked suspiciously down a dirt road and decided, nope, we are definitely not heading that way….this time – Full Steam Ahead!

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It was our first true off-road adventure, and I would say that we weren’t the most prepared on the road.  Yes we had snacks and water.  But a map?  Nope.  We were armed with maps on two phones that did not have cell service.  So my intention was to be on the Bon Jon Pass, but it turns out we were heading towards the Trailhead to Little Quilcene Trail.  Whoops.  But at least we enjoyed some great views and saw all these dainty little pink rhododendron bushes growing amongst the rugged landscape.

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Next Stop:  Mount Walker

A place that we couldn’t get lost even if we tried.  One way up.  One way down.  Only mountain summit in Washington that you can drive to.  Great views of Mount Rainier, Blake Island, West Seattle, Downtown Seattle and all of the surrounding water and mountain landscape.

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And to top off the day, a little secret, unmarked waterfall that we heard about along the way.   A walk down a short trail, a climb over some rocks and then you’re sitting on rocks right under the waterfall’s spray.  A little swimming hole and this is the perfect salvation on a hot summer day.

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Ice Caves on the Mountain Highway Loop

5 07 2013

In an attempt to test out the all-wheel capabilities of our new Subaru XV we decided to get out of the city and take it to the mountains.  And we found ourselves driving along the paved and gravel roads of the Mountain Highway Loop, just past Granite Falls, WA.

We found ourselves winding through dense green forests as we played peek-a-boo with gushing river water and snow peaked mountains socked in with clouds.

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We have an all-wheel drive vehicle, I’m decked out in what some may call ‘light-hiking gear’, other’s may just call it yoga pants and a tank top with a hoodie (so essentially the Vancouver (Canada) daily uniform.  So at this point I’m thinking I’m pretty outdoorsy.  Maybe even rugged.  So I’m ready with the map – which hike should we start out with?  Heather Lake?  Lake Twenty-Two?  We decided on Big Four Ice Caves.

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So we’re heading out to the trail, taking in the wilderness.  The trees, ferns, wildlife, still water and towering mountains making us feel like miniature versions of ourselves.  And just when I’ve taken a photo of a serene water/mountain view, out of the corner of my eye I see something black with yellowy green flecks on it.  It’s kind of a round shape – circular.  I take my eyes off of it and back to the trail, but my mind is still working, trying to make the connection of what I’m seeing.  And then – ahhhh.  Snake.  It’s a snake.  A Snaakkkkeee.  Egh. Ugh. Ugh. Uh. Eh.  I jump up and kind of run down the path, trying to shake off the fact that I just saw a snake.  Yuck.  Nathan laughs at me from behind and tells me to stop freaking out, ‘it’s just a garter snake’.  I hate snakes and I yell back to him, ‘I can’t be outside!!’.

So it took 19 miles down the Mountain Highway Loop and 5 minutes into the hike, and I have realized that I am not outdoorsy, and definitely not rugged.  Ugh.  I can’t handle the snakes, and I don’t care to.

But, we continued on the path.  Over the boardwalk across the wetlands.  Up the dirt switchbacks through the forest.


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And then we come across the hazard signs.  Avalanche Zone.  Falling Rocks.  Collapsing Snow Fields.  It looks like we found the right place.

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The Big Four Mountain towered in front of us with waterfalls snaking down the rock face in multiple places.  And at the bottom of the mountain was avalanche collected snow.  Throughout the season of snow melt the water has been melting the snow from the ground up, creating ice caves.

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No walking inside the ice caves and no climbing on top of them.  But, we had to test the boundaries just a little bit.  Although not for very long.  If you stood anywhere near the wind flow of the ice caves you could feel the sub-zero temperatures.  An icy cold wind was being pushed out of the ice caves and stepping out to either side, the temperature difference was so drastic it felt like you had walked inside a heated room, and really you just walked one foot to the right.

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Time for a Staycation

26 06 2013

There is just something exciting about packing a bag and leaving the house, not really knowing where you’re going or what you’re going to do.  This time, we packed a bag and knew that we were heading towards the Olympic National Park, but other than that?  Nothing.

So we found ourselves driving along a country road and came across the cutest fence post.  Little birdhouses on every fence post around the yard and up the drive way.  And the best part about that is that they were actually being used – little swallows were hanging around all over the place.

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Down another detour, that turned into a road leading to nowhere but another dirt road leading to who knows because we were too chicken to see where it went.  Correction – I was too chicken, because we were in a rental car, had no cell reception and I had no idea if we were just driving further and further into the depths of the park with no guarantee that it came out the other side.

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And we eventually made it to Hurricane Ridge.   I did my research, looked at the webcam and saw mountains and mountains of snow.  So I came prepared with jackets and snow boots and layers galore (similar to my trip to Big Bear Lake, CA).  Well it was 65 degrees at the top of the 5200+ ft elevation, and everyone was running around in flip flops amidst towering walls of snow.  Really a bizarre experience when you’re used to equating snow (especially that much of it) with cold weather.

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After a little bit of calling around, we did end up finding a place to rest our head for the night.  Although spontaneous, I will admit that sometimes it is nice to know where you’re going, but at least we didn’t have to double back, much.

Day Two of our staycation found us jumping out to Ruby Beach that had dazzled us during sunset the night before.  It’s a whole different feel when it’s day time and the water is so still that it shows perfect reflections of the sea stacks, and, oh yes, it shows off the perfect ripples of a skipped stone.

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A short drive from Ruby Beach and a short hike, and all of a sudden we’re in a dense forest with tons of greenery reaching for the sunlight.

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And the reason why you go on a hike is to get to the pay off – to get to that final view that makes the huffing and puffing worthwhile.  Marymere Falls – where the waters of Falls Creek drop nearly 90 feet from a cliff into a small plunge pool near the trail below.

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And after 45 hours, 450 miles, one suitcase, 2 pairs of wet shoes, an elevation of over 5200 feet, and many, many photos, we hopped on a ferry and headed home, needing a rest from our Staycation.   But what a great view on the way home. 

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The Adventures of Ruby Beach

14 06 2013

I was pretty adamant that we had to be at Ruby Beach for sunset. But I was also pretty determined to have dinner at Kalaloch Lodge.  So after seeing that sunset in Forks, WA wasn’t until 8:30pm, we motored past the signs pointing to Ruby Beach and headed on towards dinner.  I had already looked up the menu on my phone and had my eyes on a black tea poached black cod.

I had everything planned out.  Nice dinner, and then head out back to Ruby Beach to get those magical sunset photos.  I didn’t just want to see the sun set, I wanted to see all the magic that happened after the sun went down over the horizon and the skies really started to shine.

So it was disappointing to hear that there wasn’t any availability for dinner until 7:45pm.  I kind of peered around our hostess to see a pretty empty dining room, but in the end we decided to push our reservation until 9pm (their last seating).  I guess in all of my planning, I should have called ahead.  We weren’t that hungry anyway.

So back to Ruby Beach we went.  We timed it and we were exactly 14 minutes away from the restaurant.

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We were definitely not alone in our attempts to capture the sunset at Ruby Beach, and as we parked and started our trek down to the water we saw photographers loaded up with their tripods, huge lenses, and a few even had on waders.  I was pretty impressed, and since we hadn’t even seen the beach yet, I could only imagine that these hard-core photographers were going to be taking their photos in the waves.

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Beautiful beach.  Sea stacks towering over the beach, perfectly positioned towards the west to get both their shadowy figures and the dramatic skies.  And as we crept over the perfectly smooth round and oval rocks to get a closer look at the sea stacks, I finally understood what the waders were for.  Our group came to stop, everyone with the exception of our friend with the waders, because there was a stream of water that was cutting off one part of the beach to the more ideal side with the sea stacks.

Turns out this was not everyone’s first time here, and a couple of the guys went straight to work finding long pieces of driftwood to create a little driftwood bridge across the water.  Perfect.  Now that that business was settled, onto the sea stacks.

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Or rather, that was where everyone else went.  I found myself this perfect heart-shaped rock and I fell in love with it.  So much so, that as everyone else scattered from one sea stack to the next, getting the perfect shot with the perfect light, and setting up for the next perfect shot with the perfect light, I set up my own photo shoot.  A photo shoot for my perfect heart-shaped rock.  I put it in the water to get it wet, so it would really shine.  And then I propped it in the sand to get my shot.

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Perfect.  Until I almost lost my new love when the waves came in, knocking it over in the sand and almost taking it with them back into the ocean.  But, with my heart safely back in my possession, I decided I should probably be serious about these sunset shots, and returned to the rest of the group.

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With the light constantly changing, it was addicting to stay and take photos and watch as the changing light made the beach look completely different.  I really wanted to stay for the entire sunset, take in the whole experience, but now I was torn.  What about dinner?  With 9pm closing in on us and our dinner options diminishing with the late hour, we decided we had to get going.

DSC_0276But since we’d been there for almost 2 hours, as the light had been changing, so had the tides.  And our driftwood bridge was nowhere to be seen, washed away with the rising tide.  So first we leaned over the water, trying to figure out how deep it was….really.  Too deep.  Then Nathan tried to drag driftwood logs over to create a new bridge, but all we had on our side of the water were huge heavy things.  And just when I was about to bite the bullet and pull up my pants and carry my shoes, Nathan yells over to me to follow him!

So we have to climb over a bunch of logs, and then scale across a fallen tree that is wet and lying halfway across the stream.  Now what?  Nathan takes a jump and makes it, sacrificing one foot into the water.  It’s my turn now, and I don’t think I can make it.  I’m clinging to the roots of the tree, trying to get as far as I can without losing balance.  Nathan gets a piece of driftwood to lay down, but it doesn’t reach, and how can you try to jump to land on a thin, wet piece of wood.  So I decide and I’m going to have to jump.  I get myself settled, draw all the energy into my legs.  I shoo Nathan away from my jumping spot.  And I concentrate on jumping as far as I can, knowing that I’ll probably be sacrificing one wet foot too.  Just as I’m about to jump, Nathan says, ‘just plan on landing one foot in the water’.  And just like that, I’m like a tightly bound ball of springs that comes apart, and bounces in all directions.  I don’t know what happened, but somehow both of my feet land in the water, the water splash hits me up my legs, onto my vest.  My face is wet.  Even my hair is wet.  It’s as if I decided to jump into the water and get as wet as possible.

I could not believe Nathan chose to talk to me at that very moment, making me lose all my concentration.  But at that point I had black cod and fruit crumble on my mind and we jogged back to the car.  And we were late…really late for dinner.  No cell reception to call the restaurant, and we ended up driving behind the slowest car ever.  Nathan dropped me off at the door, I ran in out of breath as I saw a ‘closed’ sign, and the hostess was just about to say ‘tough luck’ to me until I told her that we did have a reservation, but then we got distracted by the sunset, and stranded on the beach, and I fell in the water, etc, etc.  Turns out, she had a soft spot for the wet and stranded type and we got safely tucked into a booth, eating black cod, and watching the last of the light of our sunset.

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PDX: Hipsters, Food Carts & Doughnuts

15 05 2013

It seems crazy that 5 years ago I was taking a train almost every other weekend.  Four hours, heading out Friday night or Saturday morning and coming back on Sunday night.  Toronto to Windsor ON.  During those trips I became an excellent train napper (although really, napping’s never been a problem for me), and saw a lot of different versions of Christmas Tree farms along the way.

Well, now that I’ve found myself on the opposite coast, I have different 4 hour train ride options.  Seattle to Portland on Amtrak for the affordable price of $24?  Sign me up!

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The train wound its way along the coast with views of the Puget Sound and rural farmland.  All in all, a pretty relaxing train ride and four hours seemed to fly right along.

And so, I arrived in Portland, suitcase in hand and the map on my phone to point me in the right direction.  The purpose of my trip?  Figure out what Portland, OR is all about.  You have three days to do it….GO!

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During my pre-research online, where everything looks bigger on the map and you can read all about the food and the streets and neighbourhoods, but you don’t quite get a sense of it, people say that Portland is a laidback city with a hipster vibe.

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It was kind of cold and rainy, so I’m not sure if I got the right vibe, but I will say that everyone seemed to be very friendly.  A lot of Portland natives tend to move to Denver for a short period of time, but ultimately find themselves back in Portland.  And yes, I did find the hipsters.  They were all hanging out in my hotel lobby with cups of coffee and black-rimmed glasses.  I definitely felt the hipster vibe, and so I also found myself standing by the wall in the corner.  I did feel like I fit in a little better when I grabbed a mocha from Stumptown and slapped my glasses on.

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So I walked.  And I walked.  And I walked some more.  What seemed like a huge downtown area, was really pretty small, and we even walked across one of the bridges (to find out later from a cab driver that that’s the neighbourhood you should avoid).  And one other unique Portland thing to know – you can’t hail a cab.  That just doesn’t work in Portland.  You have to call a cab to pick you up – anyone you see is probably on their way to some other fare.  The Jupiter Hotel (right next to the Doug Fir Lounge where you can catch some cool music) has its very own special cab button. Good to know.

Obviously food carts are key.  With so much hype, I kind of thought it would be this elaborate food cart set up and they would look like no other food cart you have ever seen, but really…..they pretty much all look like the beat up foot carts with the laminated food photos in every other city.  But the variety – this is where Portland impresses!  Porchetta sandwiches, rice bowls, thai street food, dumplings with every type of filling.  Yum.

And then, because when you’re in Portland it just seems like something you have to do.  I took the obligatory walk down to SW 3rd & SW Ankeny  and followed my nose until I could actually taste the doughnuts.   Yes, it may have been a little too early for doughnuts at 9:30am on a Friday, but that doesn’t mean there still wasn’t a line up at Voodoo Doughnuts.

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I did the necessary research ahead of time because there really doesn’t seem to be enough time to look at the varieties while you’re standing in front of the menu board.  And I didn’t want to feel the pressure and make a wrong choice.  And so, because I can’t say that bacon on a maple bar does anything for me despite my love for bacon, I had to go for the infamous Voodoo Man with the pretzel stake to his heart.

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So…Portland, the laid back city with the hipster vibe.  The food cart bonanza and home to doughnuts with pretzel stakes.  You’re only four hours and $25 away.  I’ll be back.  You can count on that.

 





Wrestle….What?

28 04 2013

 

 

 

I should probably have mentioned what the purpose was of this pilgrimage to New York.   And although I have to say that for myself, the journey was much more entertaining and rewarding than the final destination….try telling that to a fourteen year old who is on his way to WrestleMania.  Also, try telling him that WWE Wrestling isn’t 100% real….those conversations don’t go to well…or rather they go round and round in circles, until I give up and hope this  fanatic fascination is just a phase (and that it ends soon).

And so, I graciously said, ‘No, don’t worry about me. You guys go…I’m sure I can find ‘something’ to do in NYC’.  So the boys headed to Metlife Stadium, without me.  You can imagine my waves of disappointment and the crocodile tears I cried (kidding).  I prepared them as best I could – tickets in hand, pocket hand warmers, toques, gloves, jackets, etc.  Because who thought it was a good idea to have a show at an outdoor arena in the beginning of April in the NorthEast?  The entire week prior to the show we kept an eye on the weather forecast.  At one point it said 38 degrees, but feels like 34 degrees.  Umm, not even the flames shooting from the stage are going to keep you warm in those temperatures.

But, the weather warmed up a little bit, it only kind of rained on them, and surprisingly the flames shooting from the stage did create a little warmth (and possibly singed some eyebrows).  The crowds cheered and heckled as the matches began, one after another, and crowd favorites The Undertaker, The Rock, John Cena, etc. made their way into the ring and battled a completely fair and in no way staged fight.

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But, although not my cup of tea, there must be something special happening that attracts over 75,000 people to sit in the cold, bring their own homemade signs, scream their voices out and watch grown men battle in shortie shorts.





To: New Experiences in the City

19 04 2013

We had a short opportunity to explore the city and it seemed like the theme of this visit was…..Brooklyn.

We went for dinner at Talde, a restaurant in Brooklyn that is run by Top Chef winner Dale Talde and ate a delicious meal of Korean Fried Chicken, sweet hawaiian bun sliders with pork, fish and portabella mushrooms, pretzel pork and chive dumplings, crispy oyster and bacon pad thai, banana leaf sticky rice and a whole roasted branzino.  The meal was delicious and of course we couldn’t leave without dessert.  Their specialties of the night:  an award winning salted chocolate cookie crumb square, which was given the seal of approval from Cookie Monster, himself, and a Talde take on the Filipino dessert – Halo Halo.  Nothing could prepare you for this dessert, and sadly I don’t have a photo, but when I describe it, I think you’ll get the idea.  Shaved ice with evaporated milk.  Coconut pieces, fresh grapefruit and mango slices.  Tapioca squares and Captain Crunch.  What???  Yes.  Captain Crunch.  Everything mixed together in one big bowl.  At one point Nathan asked if there was a piece of fish in his dessert, it turned out to be the mango, but we wouldn’t have been surprised if there was.  It was the oddest dessert we’ve ever had (and we’ve had a lotand you couldn’t even get used to it because every single bite was a surprise.

Saturday, aside from making an early stop to Carlo’s Bake Shop, we took advantage of the sunshine and headed into the city. We headed in with the intention of heading to the oyster bar at Grand Central Terminal, but in a snap decision we ended up heading towards Battery Park (an area of town we haven’t explored in the 4 years we’ve been going to New York).

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Statue of Liberty (view from Battery Park)

 

 

In an effort to do something a little bit different during this trip we walked through the Financial District, strolled down Wall Street, saw the infamous bull, and Nathan visited his money at the New York Stock Exchange (apparently it didn’t recognize him).  And then we had a couple hours to kill ….so, decided to tackle the Brooklyn Bridge.

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My intention was to make the trek across to visit Jacques Torres for a cup of rich, creamy hot chocolate….but we stopped at the halfway point before realizing that we had to be on our way to Wolfgang’s Steak House to enjoy the best thick sliced bacon I have ever had and an aged steak that I wish I could share with everyone.  And that’s not even counting the chocolate mousse cake with homemade schlag…….yum!

And after a glass or two, or three, or four of wine, the tastiest steak I’ve had the pleasure of eating, and the sweet chocolate mousse cake and key lime pie for dessert, it was time to say good bye to Tribeca and head out of the city.

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NYC after a Great Night!





This Screams Tourist

18 04 2013

 

 

Sometimes you just have to be a tourist.  And on an early Saturday morning, that was one of those days.  Kick yourself out of bed and stumble on over to Hoboken, NJ to already see a line up forming in front of Carlo’s Bake Shop (from the reality show Cake Boss).  Here we thought the early bird would get the cannoli, but alas, so did the tour bus that was heading back to Ohio.   I would hate to see the sugar high and the inevitable crash that will follow for all those people on the bus, considering the huge boxes of pastries they were carting out of the bakery.

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An hour later we made it out, unscathed, with boxes filled with pastries that were heavy with cream filling.  Chocolate cannolis, a lobster tail, a hazelnut cream puff and a California Fruit cheesecake.  Delicious!

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The Other Side of the Hudson

14 04 2013

Sometimes you get so caught up with the bright and shiny, the hype and the frenzy, the minute details, that you forget about the big picture.  And nothing puts that into perspective than staring across the Hudson River, looking at the iconic skyline of New York City.  You see the city as a whole and can picture all of the tiny moving parts, the people, the taxis, and the decisions that are being made within.

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Skyline view from Hoboken, NJ

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Next Stop: Somewhere New

9 04 2013

After four years of traveling around the US, I have made it to 41 states, and have realized that the country truly isn’t that big.  But with that being said, 4 years of travel included a lot of the same roads travelled to a lot of the same places.

So  it was a great opportunity to travel some highways and byways and get…not lost…but rather find some new places to explore.  Traveling up the Eastcoast from Jacksonville, FL to Newark, NJ we managed to stretch out the 900 mile drive into three days of travel.  And I discovered a couple places that I had never been to before.

First Stop:  Savannah, GA (and when you say it, you have to say it like you’re from the south)

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A cute little downtown area that has a downtown shopping/outdoor plaza that reminds me of Faneuil Hall in Boston.  Lots of outdoor parks and some great eating opportunities.

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Our intention was to have some good ol’ southern home cooking at Paula Deen’s Lady and Sons restaurant.

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But after seeing the line up, and not being able to get a reservation for another three hours, we started asking around, to see if it was worth the wait.  Turns out, the locals don’t think too highly of the place and at the first mention of the restaurant, their faces started pinching up like they had eaten a sour grape.  So I can’t give the restaurant or its food a fair review, but I can say that the locals love their BBQ, and sent us to a little hole in the wall place called Angel’s BBQ that you might have passed by if not for the little BBQ flag that hung outside its door.  And for dessert, tiny morsels of tart sweetness with key lime cookies from Byrds.  

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The best part, they have a sampling station at the front of the store so you can try out flavours from chocolate chip and chocolate macaroon to lemon, key lime, peach and apple crunch.

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Second Stop:  Myrtle Beach, SC

What can I say, it was dinner time.  And before we even made it to the Myrtle Beach city limits we started seeing signs for roasted oysters, stuffed clams and other delightful treats.  We made it as far as The Hot Fish Club in Murrells Inlet, a restaurant that has a history dating back before the civil war and who’s first club house was located on a place called Drunken Jack Island (who doesn’t love that!).  Fresh gulf shrimp, Alabama oysters (coming for a Pacific NW’er, I can say they had a great taste), Seafood Paella, Lobster Pot Pie and key lime pie for dessert.  Yum!

So needless to say, by the time we rolled into Myrtle Beach, SC it was dark and I’d had a couple glasses of wine, so I can tell you nothing about the beach.  I assume it is glorious and the reason why so many people were walking the streets that were filled with All-U-Can-Eat Seafood Buffets (some of them boasting up to 200 items) and surprisingly, one after another, giant neon/fluorescent lit beachwear stores and each time there was a store so bright it hurt your eyes, it was followed by a huge, elaborately built mini golf course.  What is going on Myrtle Beach?  It was nothing like I expected, and kind of reminded me of Niagara Falls (the Canadian side), which considering it has been named the ‘Honeymoon Capital’, surprisingly has a lot of Ripley’s Believe It Or Not type places, wax museums, and gaudy souvenir shops.

Third Stop:  North East, MD

I don’t know that this little east coast town would have ever been a destination for me, if Nathan hadn’t stumbled upon it 7 years ago.  He always thought he’d make it back around, it just took him a little while.  Cute main street and a great casual seafood place, called Woody’s Crab House.  Their specialty:  Hard Shell Blue Fin Crabs – pride of the Chesapeake Bay.  Too bad they’re scared of cold water and the waters are cold in Maryland right now….brrrr.  So, we’ll have to find another opportunity to visit North East, Maryland, hopefully in less than seven years.

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All in all, a great little road trip.  Fun to see new places and to have those places surprise you.  I love to plan things, but there’s no way that I could have planned the meandering trip that we had along the coast.  Sometimes it’s best to just let things happen and let the trip find you.