Almost Too Much to Take In

2 02 2014

The jet lag is hitting me.  After an evening of tasty treats, wine, cava and hot chocolate I easily fell into a deep sleep after our first night in Barcelona.  Only to wake up at 4AM wide awake, hours before my alarm was set to go off for our day of exploring.  I tried to lull myself back to sleep, but my body was thinking it was 7PM and I just took a long nap before my real bed time.  I reviewed my spanish phrases, ‘no hablo espanol’. ‘no entiendo’, ‘cuanto cuesta?’, ‘la cuenta por favor’ and ‘Esta es mi hermana’.  I don’t speak spanish, I don’t understand, how much is this?, the bill please, and this is my sister.  Got it.  

Now what to do for another 3 hours.  I tried to fall back asleep but I could hear the Cathedral bells ringing in the distance and I just felt like things were happening in the city and I was missing it!  What does the Cathedral look like as the sun is rising?  What does it look like before La Boqueria opens officially?  These are the secret sights of the city that I really wanted to see, but, I settled for looking through my Barcelona City Guide app while I waited for the sun to rise, the city to start buzzing and most importantly, for my sister to wake up.

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Barcelona Cathedral

We had one thing on our agenda for our sunny day in Barcelona.  La Sagrada Familia, an overwhelmingly large Roman Catholic Church designed by Catalan architect, Antoni Gaudi.  Construction of La Sagrada Familia started in 1882 and Gaudi became involved in 1883, taking over the project and transforming it with his architectural style, combining Gothic and curvilinear Art Nouveau forms.  By 2010, the construction had only reached the midpoint, and currently the completion year is set for 2026 – 144 years of construction.

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It was an amazing experience to see this 132 year old construction project up close and personal.  The amount of detail in the stone carvings made me want to take a photo of every sculpture – everywhere you looked was a work of art.  It took us a long time before we made our way inside.

The sun was shining through the stained glass windows, making the colors pop and twinkle.  The ceiling was so high and the walls and columns intricately designed and you can see Gaudi’s inspiration from nature.

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My sister and I took pictures of everything inside and out.  We compared photos and it is amazing how you can be standing in front of the same thing and have such a different perspective.  I loved the stained glass and she was infatuated with the columns – she kept snapping photos and I would look at them and say, ‘I have no idea what you just took a picture of – I can’t even see the angle to get that shot’.  Over and over again it happened, but that’s what makes it fun to travel with someone with a different perspective on the world.





Bienvenidos a Barcelona

1 02 2014

It has been 7 years since my sister and I have traveled together.  It was our first solo trip together (just us – not a family vacation) and we went on the cheapest 4 star all inclusive we could find out of Toronto.  So we went to Cuba.  We drank cuban coffee, chilled red wine, local cheeses and fruits, I played water polo with the boys while she took a siesta and she freaked out when I stayed out til 5am with the Italian activities staff.  A lot has changed since then.  I was living in Vancouver, BC, she in Toronto, ON.  Now I’m in Seattle, WA and she lives in Geneva, Switzerland.  We went from two single workaholics to two married women of leisure 7 years later (well…..I work from home, but she’s retired).  She had 2 cats, she still has 2 cats.  I was single and fancy free and now have a cat and a 15 year old step son.  My how things have changed.

For our second sister trip we went to Barcelona, Spain.

The first impression of a city is something that you can’t replicate.  Yes, it was raining when we arrived in Barcelona and despite the palm trees, it didn’t really seem tropical like I would expect Spain to be like, but, I loved it.  The streets were shiny from the rain, the sun was going down so the city lights were starting to turn on and as we walked from Placa de Catalunya to our hotel, I looked down every narrow alleyway with awe.  We were staying in the El Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter).  Barcelona is a gorgeous city.

Our first night we had no plans except to eat and drink!  We started our evening at Bilbao Berria for pintxo tapas – Basque region-style tapas.  Small tastes that are served on bread and skewered – just count up the sticks at the end of the night.

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We continued our evening with a walk down Las Ramblas and peeked into Mercat de Sant Josep de La Boqueria, the famous La Boqueria market, for dragon fruit, coconut and strawberry juice.  Most of the stalls were starting to close up but we scurried around for a quick tour and saw stacks of colorful, exotic fruit, every type of meat/organ that you would ever want (tripe, goat heads, pigs feet, roosters with their head feathers still attached) and the most random seafood that you would never think that you would eat.  We left that market seeing something that could look like a small skinned dog, but I translated it when we got back to the hotel, conejo = rabbit.  

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We told ourselves we would be back tomorrow, but not before we grabbed some fuchsia-coloured dragon fruit and fresh coconut for a late night snack.

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Next stop:  Cafe de L’Opera, the historic cafe on Las Ramblas that made its start as a tavern in the 18th century.  Our plan was to end our evening with the Chocolat con Churros.  But…….we just couldn’t say no to cava sangria.

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And maybe some Catalan-style bread brushed with garlic and tomato and assorted tapas, because you can’t go wrong with patatas bravas, olives and fried cheese.

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We did finish the night with the infamous Chocolat con Churros and the hot chocolate was so thick, but perfect for dipping churros.

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We made our way back to our hotel and I told my sister, the one thing I wanted to find was the BARCINO metal sculpture letters.  Set against the city’s oldest stones, the sculpture BARCINO is the roman name for Barcelona, with 6 letters made of bronze and 1 made of aluminum.  She had been to Barcelona and had never seen them.  Well it turns out that these letters were right by our hotel (how she did not see them last time since they stayed at the same hotel – I do not know…)

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The view of the Placa Nova and the Catedral de Barcelona at night was a perfect way to complete my introduction to Barcelona.  And I couldn’t wait for what other discoveries we would make during our trip.

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From Cuba to Barcelona.  My sister and I have evolved from umbrella drinks, suntanning and not leaving the resort in Cuba, to eating sprees, testing out my Rosetta Stone Spanish and walking, metro’ing and busing our way through Barcelona.





Je ne parle pas Francais

1 02 2014

I find myself dreaming about the french conversations I want to attempt.  By french conversations I mean, ‘I would like a box of 12 macaroons’ = ‘je voudrais une boîte de douze macarons’.  So far I have braved grocery shopping, mime-talking to the butcher (thank goodness for a friendly french-speaking stranger), buying make up remover and 200 grams of the tastiest raspberry white chocolate bark (this one is my proudest moment).

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When you don’t speak the language it makes you pause a little bit – do I really need this?  Do I have a question? Can I get by by just watching people or looking at the package and figuring it out myself?    

For the most part, walking around hearing french surrounding me hasn’t phased me too much.  It actually feels quite familiar since, as a Canadian, I took french in school for 5 years.  But listening to tapes and memorizing vocabulary words does not prepare you for functioning in a french city like Geneva, Switzerland.

My lack of French skills means that I have immersed myself in the non-speaking parts of the city – the architecture, the landscape, the tourist attractions – really anything that I could take a photo of.

The pride of the city is the Jet D’Eau, the high pressure water fountain that shoots up a jet spray of water in Lac Leman (or Lake Geneva), which you can catch a great view of in the Geneve Jardin Anglais.  And you can catch glimpses of it all over the city when it peeks through a plaza or side street or even over top of the buildings.  It’s almost like a homing beacon – as long as I could see the Jet D’Eau, I could figure out where I was.  It’s just as much a reference point here as the mountains are in downtown Vancouver, BC.

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Me & My Sister & the Jet D’Eau

Another main attraction in Geneva is the L’Horloge Fleurie, the flower clock by the water, which has been in service since 1951, changes flowers throughout the seasons, and has never stopped or been out of order.

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Walking through the streets of Geneva, especially in the winter time, you’ll notice these strange trees.  With patchy scaly-looking trunks and odd bulb like branches, I kept asking my sister, ‘what kind of trees are these?’ Her response was, ‘they’re weird aren’t they – I don’t know.’  I did a little of my own research and it turns out they’re a hybrid of the sycamore tree and they’re called ‘Plane Trees’.  They’re really green and bushy in season and then the city tends to prune the branches back in the winter (although I’ve seen some with their branches on and they look like Chia Pets).

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No trip to Geneva seemed complete without swinging past the United Nations building, so we made a quick trip there to see the Chair du Palais des Nations, which is a monument in front of the UN building of a broken wooden chair meant to raise awareness of the devastating effects of land mines and cluster bombs.  Being the UN Building, we were also treated to some protesting while we were there.

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The Place Neuve showed off the picturesque Grand-Theater, a replica of the Paris Garnier Opera House, and is across the street from the Promenade des Bastions, where you can find the Reformation Wall, which is a monument that honors individuals, events and documents of the Protestant Reformation.

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Grand-Theater

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Reformation Wall

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Place du Bourg-de-Four is Geneva’s oldest square and when I came across it, it felt like the epitome of european culture to me.

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And although I haven’t put my french sentence into practice YET – with the help of my sister I have been able to taste the delectable treats at Laduree – Salted Caramel, Pistachio and Rose-flavoured french macaroons.  YUM!

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Show Me Something Old

29 01 2014

I am instantly drawn to cobblestones.  I don’t know what it is, but when I see those uneven, sometimes jagged, stones pieced together in a mismatched puzzle, all I think is – that is where I need to go.  Those who know me, know that I am not the most sure-footed, a trip or two is commonplace, and perhaps uneven streets are not the safest place for me to be.  But I don’t care – I love Old Towns!

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My first look at Geneva took us from the airport through downtown Geneva passing lit up stores with ‘soldes, soldes, soldes‘ signs – all of the January sales, restaurants with their specialties written on A-frame signs, and patisseries, chocolatiers, and an assortment of other tempting destinations, but as soon as I saw a narrow alley inlaid with mismatched cobblestones leading to a steep staircase, I told my sister – that’s where I want to go.

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I had an hour and a half to myself while my sister was in French class and I pointed myself in the direction of those cobblestones.  I found this stairway that was hidden in a wall and it was so dark that all you could see was the light at the top shining down on you.  And of course, I said to myself, ‘this looks like a good place to start my adventures’.  So I climbed those steps to find myself on the backside of Cathedral St. Pierre – the crown jewel of Old Town.

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So I started my trek through the small side streets.  The Cathedral was definitely my prime destination, but then I found myself distracted by what was just around the corner, down that side street, under that bridge, through that courtyard, and most importantly, where are those people going and where did they come from? 

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I knew I was running out of time and when I saw this directional sign, I thought, ‘yes – which way to the Cathedral’.  So off I went, but then I thought…. Maison Tavel, and from what I remembered from the Geneva City App – that was a ‘must-see’ attraction.  So my rationale was – I’m right here, so why don’t I take the tour (it’s free!) and I have to go past the Cathedral to get back to meet my sister for lunch anyway…..

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Well, I made a friend at Maison Tavel.  The docent greeted me, and once I said, ‘parlez-vous anglais?’ did his best to provide me with all of the great things to see and explore at Maison Tavel – the oldest private dwelling in Geneva and a unique example of medieval civil architecture.  Plus, he kept finding me throughout my tour to give me more information about all of the other museums and attractions to see in Geneva – he even drew me a map.

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By the time I left I knew I was out of time.  I found myself skirting around the Cathedral but still I couldn’t seem to find the front of the Cathedral, just wandered around in the back yard before finding my hidden staircase in the wall.

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When I met my sister, she looked at me incredulously, ‘what?  You didn’t go to the Cathedral – but that’s the main part of Old Town.  How did you not find it?’ 

I have one more week here in Geneva so my one goal is to find that Cathedral – and actually see it, maybe even go inside…..And also, get some french macaroons.